Normally I scour Yelp, longing for the next hidden gem to cover. There are a few self-anointed guidelines. One is it must have fewer than 1,000 reviews on Yelp. Another is it cannot have been covered by my iconic predecessor Erica Wayne in the past five years — as my rants and musings stand like a grizzled mountain man next to her poetic prose.
This week I was saved hours of Yelp searching, as an urgent letter of concern from Dirk Yarborough of Orange County sent me to Foxy’s Restaurant in Glendale.
Dirk was able to step beyond his displeasure with the Pasadena Weekly’s political leanings to talk about one of the few remaining topics that transcend party lines — food. Foxy’s recently changed hands, which is why Dirk reached out. Foxy’s features a menu that resembles a catalogue rather than the typical, double-sided, plastic diner menu. Understandably, Dirk worried that the financial aspect of keeping such a massive menu will lead to new owners cutting back.
In true Woodward and Bernstein fashion (yes, I went to J school) I fact-checked my new source’s info. I called Foxy’s to confirm they had new owners, and was quickly met with an unprompted “But they are not changing anything!” before I could even ask if any changes were expected. It seems that Dirk was not the only regular concerned about new owners, which is understandable given that Foxy’s opened in 1964 and has established itself as a Glendale icon over the last five decades. For good reason, the 50-something year old A-frame restaurant has allowed the retro architectural design touches to stay and grown the menu items with the changing times. I want to imagine that the menu grew to the 20-some odd page behemoth that it is now because they have never removed items; rather they just tack on new pages.
A true family diner, Foxy’s menu has every single potential eater covered. There are Mediterranean breakfasts, an entire page of vegan breakfasts, traditional griddle classics, Mexican breakfast plates, and an entire page with all the varieties of eggs benedict you could think of. With such a large menu, I was going to have to make multiple visits over the course of weeks to even put a dent in the offerings, or better yet, call in back-up. So I brought in the people who taught me everything I know about food — my family. I invited the eight person team consisting of my significant other, my parents and my sister and brother-in-law with their two small children who I affectionately call “the possum family” as they climb everywhere, eat everything, and are regularly strapped to their parents like satchels.
The eight or so of us assembled — Avengers style — on a Sunday morning. Despite their main parking lot being full and a line out the door, our party sat relatively quickly for what was clearly the busiest part of the week.
The interior of Foxy’s is a time machine to the diners of yester-year. The wood-paneled interior is lit by dangling Edison bulbs, stone bordered fireplaces give the dining rooms a home-like feel, which is furthered by the presence of old-school Oster toasters at most tables so you toast your pieces of bread to your preference.
The eggs cordon bleu ($18) ham and cheese stuffed breaded chicken breast crowned with two poached eggs and hollandaise sauce was exactly as it sounds: A mashup between the dinner classic and a deconstructed Benedict. And it was delicious
The pancakes — in all varieties — were hearty, spongy and a healthy serving for anyone who needs to power up before a day of shopping.
The Mexican breakfasts might have been the favorites. The chilaquiles are served with your chicken (we subbed carne asada) served over crispy corn chips and baked in a fantastically rich and flavorful enchilada sauce with gooey cheese and eggs over the top. Foxy’s is serving a great version of chilaquiles, machaca, breakfast burritos and other spicy, delicious favorites.
Another mash-up, the corned beef hash Benedict ($14), mixed the two old-school staples together into one new Benedict, where the salty flavors of the corn beef hash are met with the fat of the yolk from the poached eggs. As mentioned, they have more Benedict varieties, including lox ($14), crab ($14) and chicken breast ($13).
If you cannot find your first choice amongst the 20 or so menu pages, Foxy’s has no issues letting you substitute to your heart’s desire. I had a craving for banana pancakes so I upgraded the short stack ($5) to get my wish and have sliced bananas cooked inside. The waitress was so open to my substitution that she offered to have bananas served on top as well, a question I regret not saying yes to.
In addition to the multitudes of breakfast offerings, Foxy’s also has equally expansive lunch and dinner menus, complete with cocktails, appetizers, salads, sandwiches, Mexican platters and desserts.
Rest assured, we left with full bellies and enough energy to tackle a Sunday filled with more errands (and hijinks) than you can imagine. Yes, all eight of us.
To Dirk, and any other Foxy’s loyalists, it seems that the Glendale breakfast haven has no plans on changing any of the things that have kept it alive over the last 50 years. So if you are in Glendale and need refuge from the Americana or Galleria, or you just want a throwback to a different era of dining, Foxy’s is still the place.
206 W. Colorado St., Glendale
Major Credit Cards Accepted/Alcohol Served