Still the Kang

For our family, early spring is an almost nonstop celebration of our survival — and graceful aging, of course. My sister, mom, several good friends and a stepson all have February birthdays. Then it’s on to March: our anniversary and even more birthdays. (At last count, we have 20 special events to commemorate within a month-and-a-half.)

The festivities necessarily involve a lot of eating out and, even in these times of frugality and belt-tightening, the most important milestones demand an occasional evening of pure elegance.

There are lots of local choices but, for us, one of the very best is Yujean Kang’s in Old Pasadena.

Yujean transplanted himself and his amazing culinary talents from Northern California to Pasadena about two decades ago. Since then, many restaurants have come and gone; but Kang’s cuisine, as idiosyncratic as the spelling of his first name, along with the restaurant’s carefully chosen wine list and the posh interior, have earned a faithful clientele.

Delicate appetizers, such as steamed julienne of fish with kumquat and passion fruit sauce ($12.75), and lush desserts, such as warm sweet red-bean pancake with ice cream ($6.50), reveal the Asian, European and American traditions from which Yujean draws inspiration. His art has been recognized repeatedly, from adulatory articles in food and wine magazines to high ratings from Zagat, Fodor and Michelin.

Though a few of the offerings are Kang’s own fanciful creations, most are based on classical recipes, with subtle innovations making the difference. Velvety chicken breast with glazed cashew nuts ($15.95) is a perfect example. Poultry with nuts is standard Asian fare, but the candied, crunchy cashews and crushed vanilla bean Yujean uses give it a memorable identity all its own.

Ditto for the eggplant ($11.95), whose traditional garlic/chili sauce is nicely jazzed with cilantro. There’s another irresistible dish of chicken with silk squash in plum-wine sauce with an inventive garnish of crispy Parma ham ($15.95). And Yujean’s Chinese risotto ($10.75) is a creative masterpiece — with black mushrooms, Chinese sausage, fresh mustard greens, smoked pork and a touch of chili oil.

I love the restaurant’s polenta diamonds (made with corn flour and eggs), fried crisp on the outside but divinely creamy within. They’re used like bean curd, paired with filet of pork, mushrooms and zucchini ($15.75) or tender shrimp with scallion and cilantro sauce ($18.75). Both variants are equally enthralling, and the seafood preparation was named by the Los Angeles Times as one of the top 50 dishes in area restaurants.

Everything at Yujean’s is elegant, from the intricate Chinese platters that hold the beautifully arranged edibles to the muted red walls and black lacquer moldings serving as backdrop to understated Chinese paintings. A high-molded tin ceiling and a plate-glass facade facing Raymond Avenue add to the richness, as do the diminutive bamboo arrangements on each table and the fine wine glasses reverently set down.

The glassware isn’t just for show. Kang’s wine list is an oenophile’s dream, ranging from minor Chardonnays to elevated (and expensive) French Burgundies, and including many of California Pinot noirs, Merlots and other interesting varietals. It’s obvious the proprietor, who got his start just a stone’s throw from Napa, really knows his wines.

Yujean Kang has become a household name among the Parkway Grill / Shiro / Tre Venezie / Bistro 45 set because of virtuoso dishes like sautéed king salmon filet with garlic chives and mushrooms ($16.95), tea-smoked duck salad with black-bean dressing ($9.75), soft tofu pillows braised with Napa cabbage and black mushrooms ($12.95), and free-range veal with mushrooms, shallots and crispy matchstick yams ($23.95).

Kang pairs tongue-tingling crispy beef with baby bok choy and Thai chilies ($15.95), tops seafood salad with a tangy mustard dressing ($13.50), beds sautéed prawns in fresh pea shoots ($20.95) and spikes sautéed green beans with smoked pork and garlic chips ($11.95).

Much of the menu’s attention is focused on seafood. And if these preparations seem, at first read, to be a bit more traditional than some of Yujean’s signature dishes, they’re still worth trying. Kung pao prawns ($19.95), for instance, have the usual toasted peanuts and dried chilies, but also crispy tofu. Crispy calamari Hakka-style ($16.95) is tossed in a wok with garlic, scallions, fresh chili pepper and the requisite salt and pepper.

Fresh black cod (yum) is prepared Cantonese-style (with roasted garlic, soy sauce, ginger and scallions) or in Szechwan fashion, with a spicy chili sauce. Both come with seasonal veggies and cost $23.95. And fresh sea scallops are done in the Mandarin manner, lightly battered, sautéed with chili, garlic, ginger and fresh tomato puree, with a side of sautéed snow peas ($20.95).

The outstanding presentation (formally attired servers bearing ornate serving dishes and expertly wielding double-cupped spoons) is another touch of class. Among the bevy of restaurants vying for our attention and patronage, very few are as exciting, unique or as ultimately satisfying as Yujean Kang’s. And, with the large number of seductive dishes, it’s a good thing we have so many springtime events to celebrate with our friend Yujean.